PRICED PER SET OF SIX PLUGS
Standard: Copper standard plugs offer heat-range tunability with OEM-Spec manufacturing quality and excellent product reliability standards. V-Power: Like the standard plugs with a groove in the center electrode. Modern lean-burning, fuel efficient engines create a new set of requirements for spark plugs. NGK Spark Plugs answered the call for a spark plug with lower sparking voltage requirements by developing the V-Power, the only spark plug with a v-groove center electrode on the market today. Why is this important? The v-groove center electrode on a V-Power spark plug forces the spark to the outer edge of the ground electrode, placing it closer to the air/fuel mixture. What this does is allow the spark to more quickly ignite the mixture, providing more complete combustion. More complete combustion not only provides more power, it also means less harmful emissions. These emissions are not only damaging to the environment, they can reduce the life of expensive catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. V-Power Spark Plugs also require lower ignition firing voltage, resulting in quicker starts and easier cold weather starts throughout the life of the plugs. NGK V-Power Spark Plugs also are ideally suited for race cars and high performance street cars. Today's performance engines are high compression/high stress applications. Many are supercharged, turbo-charged or nitrous oxide fed. NGK's patented v-groove design allows the ignition system to easily spark in these dense air/fuel mixtures. The flame kernel will quickly grow and allow the engine to potentially make more power since it now is operating more efficiently. As an added bonus, the v-groove forcing the spark to the outer edge of the ground electrode helps reduce the "quenching" effect, reducing misfires caused by high cylinder pressures "blowing out" the spark. G-Power Platinum: Another precious metal just became more affordable. The all-new G-Power Platinum Spark Plug is designed to deliver the power, performance and quality you expect from NGK at a very competitive price. We call it platinum power to the people. The G-Power Spark Plug features an extremely fine center electrode of platinum combined with a sharp pointed ground electrode designed for better igniting performance. When compared to conventional plugs, the result is a spark plug that delivers better starts, superior acceleration and greater fuel economy. Extremely clean burning, a new set of G-Power Platinum plugs also creates a considerable reduction in overall emissions. The superior performance and extremely efficient fuel burning qualities of platinum. They make NGK G-Power mean and clean. Platinum: The original equipemnt in the Supra. They are available in the stock temp of '6'. The platinum material on the center and ground electrode is harder than copper and resists wear. Considering the hassle of chaning plugs on the 7M, many Supra owners enjoy the extended miles between plug replacement. Iridium IX: The most technologically advanced high performance plugs available. Featuring a 0.6 mm iridium center electrode tip, they offer superior ignitability without sacrificing durability. The tapered ground electrode increases flame kernel expansion, while the superior heat range design is ideally suited to the demands of high performance environments. Specially designed to meet the needs of serious enthusiasts, Iridium IX Spark Plugs offer outstanding acceleration, high fuel efficiency and long life. When you demand the most from your engine, rely on the proven performance of NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs. Priced per batch of *6 Plugs*. Please select number of batches to ship.
All plugs in stock at SupraSport.com!
Heat ranges are not the same between brands
How heat is dissipated
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug.
For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
Can I use Iridium plugs with nitrous injection or a blown alcohol motor?
Yes, and Yes.
We double checked with the tech’s on this one, they say, while they have been watching for problems, thus far, there has been no reports of any problems in using iridium plugs with a nitrous system.
There should not be any problems using Iridium with a blown alcohol motor
Should I gap my Iridium Plugs?
The manufacturers say NO.
This is because most people do not know how to properly gap a spark plug, and the center electrodes on the ultra-fine iridium can easily snap if mishandled. There is no warranty for snapped center electrodes. The manufacturers say an iridium spark plug will run so much better than a traditional plug, even if it is not gapped for that motor, that they would prefer you just leave it rather than risk snapping the center electrode.
Personally, we at suprasport.com, gap our iridium plugs for our own vehicles (we’re rebels)....and we have a few drawers full of them if we break them. If you insist on gapping your iridium plug.
How long will my Iridium spark plugs last?
A traditional iridium plug such as a ZFR6FIX-11 has an iridium center electrode, however the ground electrode is the traditional nickel construction. The ground electrode will wear out first. The manufacturers of Irdium plugs are saying 40,000 to 60,000 miles. But they have to temper their projections as driving conditions and motor modifications differ. Typically we have found you can expect 60,000 to 80,000 miles on anunaltered motor. (the wife’s mini-van has had Iridiums for 76,000 miles, I examined 2 of the plugs, they had some minor wear on the ground electrode, I put them back in and will likely change them in another 5,000 miles)
Some NGK Iridium racing plugs have iridium center and a platinum ground electrodes. If installed to a regular engine they would likely last longer than most people keep their car (barring any motor problems that can cause premature plug death). But, these usually come in heat ranges too cold for an unaltered motor and are usually used in racing applications where all bets are off.
For the traditional automotive market, the longest lasting plugs are the NGK "IFR" series. These have Iridium center and platinum tipped ground electrodes, however these are extremely limited in application as they only manufactured these in a couple of heat range configurations.
Can I use platinum plugs with nitrous injection?
No, it is not suggested to use platinum plugs with nitrous oxide injection.
There have been instances where the platinum tip has lost its bond to either the center or ground electrode when they were used in a motor with nitrous.
Thus far the tech's say they have had no problems using Iridium plugs with nitrous.
Can old spark plugs be cleaned?
Yes, you can clean spark plugs, but in most cases its not worth it.
We do not recommend it for a number of reasons. In short, you will not get the same performance from a cleaned plug as a new plug. This is because electricity likes sharp edges to discharge from, a used plug will already have wear, and cleaning may contribute to that wear even more. (depending on the cleaning method used) If you want to try it, the below cleaning procedure was supplied to us by an old motor head. Good luck!
If the firing end is wet, make sure you clean the spark plug with a quick drying cleaner. (Examples: contact cleaner or brake cleaner).
Sand blast the spark plug using low air pressure and use a dry compound.
Completely blow all the sand from the spark plug.
Using a wire brush clean the threads and re-gap.
NOTE: Insufficient cleaning of the spark plug may lead to spark plug failure in a very short period of time. Clean the spark plug thoroughly to avoid problems later. Remember, if a spark plug is fouling it's usually a result of engine side factors or incorrect heat range selection.
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How do I find a colder or hotter plug?
First, consult the NGK numbering system page,(listed on the bottom left of the 411 info page), you should be able to see which digits identify the heat range for your spark plug.
EXAMPLE: The heat range for a BCPR6ES-11 is the "6" (ignore the -11, it is the gap)
After you have identified the numbering system for your plug, merely raise or lower that number to change the heat range.
REMEMBER, NGK PLUGS GET COLDER THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, HOTTER THE LOWER THE NUMBER.
Say you are starting with a BKR6E-11
if you want a colder plug, you would use BKR7E-11
if you want a hotter plug, you would use BKR5E-11
(again, on non-racing plugs, the number after the "-" refers to the gap)
Once you have decided on a number, test to see if it exists by typing that number in the part #search. If it exists, you can add it to the cart.
If it does not exist, you will need to contact NGK customer service at (877)-473-6767 for further assitance
RACING PLUGS ARE AN EXCEPTION
Any NGK spark plug that starts with an “R” is a racing plug (it is important you note we said it starts with an “R”, not that it has an “R” in it) For the NGK racing plugs, the heat range is after the dash IE: R5671A-10 is a 10 heat range. You can change heat ranges on racing plugs merely by raising or lowering the last digit.
If you are trying to go hotter on an R5671A-10
you would lower the last digit, you want an R5671A-9
If you are trying to go colder on an R5671A-10
you would raise the last digit, you want an R5671A-11
In the NGK racing plugs, there are some plugs in which 1/2 heat ranges are available. These are displayed as a 3 digit heat range. An example is an R6120-105, this would more readily be understood as a 10.5 heat range(10 1/2 heat range)
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